You can accomplish the "don't have to reload the page to see my changes" with htmx and it's still "server-side rendering" (or mostly server-side rendering). Legendarily, the fastest website on the internet uses partial page caching to achieve its speed
What do you like about HTMX? I coming from a world of plain JS usage -- no SPAs or the like. I just felt like HTMX was just a more complicated way to write what could be simple .fetch() requests.