"In May 2020, Chrome switched to DNS over HTTPS by default."

Welcome to hell. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DNS_over_HTTPS

(My current chrome reports no at https://one.one.one.one/help/ so maybe I changed it or maybe the default's different now)

Can confirm, Firefox did this forever ago. Become my ritual during a rebuild to turn DNS over HTTPS off because it fucks everything up.

Edit: Found it, February 2020: https://blog.mozilla.org/en/firefox/firefox-continues-push-t...